I’m always interested in trying new foods. That’s why, on my trip to Japan last year, I had a particular restaurant in mind as I landed: Chanko Kawasaki. 

I had heard a lot about chanko nabe, aka “sumo stew.” It’s supposed to be the stuff sumo wrestlers consume to help bulk up—nutritious and high in protein for building muscles, and easy to eat in large quantities to pack on those calories. I happened to find Chanko Kawasaki through a simple Google search, and soon discovered that it’s not just any chanko nabe restaurant, but the original! It was founded by a former sumo wrestler turned stable head, and he devised the dish as a way to feed his wrestlers well.

The restaurant is located only a few minutes by foot from Ryogoku Station, and not far from the Ryogoku Kokugikan Sumo Hall, where matches happen. The station is decorated with large images of famous sumo wrestlers, proudly announcing the historic nature of the area.

Chanko Kawasaki is fairly small, and its entrance is around the back when heading there from the station. Given its legendary status as the origin of chanko nabe, I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to get a seat. Fortunately, though, I happened to go during the sumo off-season, so there were only a couple other parties there. 

My group got a standard chanko nabe, as well as a variety of skewered meats. The hot pot stew is primarily chicken meat (plus liver and kidney), along with tofu and vegetables such as nappa cabbage and carrots. It’s kept at the ideal temperature using a single portable stove. While this was indeed authentic sumo food, they don’t serve it in sumo-sized portions to ordinary folks (though you can keep ordering more).

The thing that surprised me most about the chanko nabe is how clean and refreshing it tasted. I had expected a fairly heavy dish, equivalent to brawny bodybuilders eating steaks, but it all went down easily. That doesn’t mean it was lacking in flavor, though. The broth was nice and savory, and the ingredients all tasted great. Nothing was overcooked either, and even the chicken breast was far from dry. I could easily see myself eating it often and in large quantities. 

Overall, I am very glad I went to Chanko Kawasaki. While I haven’t had other chanko nabe to compare, I would be satisfied with versions even half as good. I’d be curious to see what it’s like during sumo season, but for now, I at least have my memories of hot stew on a pleasant winter’s night.